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Oysters of Northern Brittany
The oyster cultivation area of Cancale is enormous. Tidally it is also quite unique. At approx. 30 feet, it has one of the largest tidal mean ranges in the world. This translates into most active tidal flow, carrying nutrients past the hungry "mouths" of countless oysters almost continuously. Besides the cultivation of Pacific oysters in the inter-tidal zone, many growers also cultivate European oysters in the sub-tidal zone. At a depth of anywhere from 10 to 40 feet, they are grown either on the ocean bottom (traditional bottom cultivation) or suspended in plastic cages (modern suspended cultivation). Whatever European oyster cultivation method is chosen, it is always associated with high costs (and great risks) for the growers. First, young (seed) oysters (so called Naissins) are procured either from marine laboratories or natural collectors. The young oysters are then spread in a designated marine plot (or placed in the suspended cages). Unlike the Pacific oyster, the European oyster grows more slowly, commanding an extra year or two to reach marketable size. Much can happen to the grower's European oysters during this time. If he is growing them on the ocean floor, a storm might pick up and shift some (or all) of his stock to some place unknown. The European oyster is also highly susceptible to (at least) two serious oyster diseases (Martellia refringens, Bonamia ostrea). Bottom cultivators thus rotate their growing areas. Areas, where an oyster disease has struck, are generally quarantined for a few seasons. The growers also watch the density of the oyster seed in a particular plot. High density would aid the rapid spread of an oyster disease and could also create an excessively competitive environment for available nutrients.
Health advisory: There is a risk associated with consuming raw oysters or any raw animal protein. If you have chronic illness of the liver, stomach, or blood or have immune disorders, you are at greatest risk of illness from raw oysters and should eat oysters fully cooked. If you are unsure of your risk, you should consult your physician.
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Not far from the famous cloister Mont-Saint-Michel,
there is a little coastal town called Cancale. Although
Cancale might be considered fairly small as towns go, it is a
giant town when it comes to oysters. Considered by many oyster
lovers "the true oyster capital of the world", it is,
at the very least, most certainly the oyster capital of all of
Brittany. This is where Louis XIV., often remembered as the "sun
king", usually preferred to order his oysters. Riders on
fast horses would deliver his fresh oysters directly to his royal
palace, Versailles. Today, many of the finest restaurants
in Paris insist on oysters only from Cancale. The town is loaded
with lots of quaint little restaurants. Excellent food is served
there. This area is famous not only for its oysters, but also
for superb lamb dishes and an array of fine wines. Down at the
Bay of Cancale, an oyster lover is welcomed by a good number
of oyster vendors, offering copious amounts of fresh oysters
to the general public at reasonable prices. Whatever an oyster
lover's heart might desire, at least one of the vendors will
have it. Pacific oysters ("Creuses") are available
in any size, from little "slurpers" right on up to
the so called "Sauvages", the "wild ones",
which designates huge Pacific oysters. They are unsuitable for
slurping off the half shell, as they would choke the proverbial
horse (hence only suited for cooking). European oysters are also
available. Historically, European oysters ("Plates")
are Brittany's claim to fame. Even so called "Pied de Cheval"
can be bought. These are big European oysters that somehow managed
to to live to a ripe old age. They were overlooked by harvesters
for years and spared the ravages of oyster diseases. Despite
their age, they are most tender and highly tasty. The meat of
oysters does not get "tough" with age - it just gets
bigger. The vendors down by the water will gladly open any oyster
for a small fee. Oyster lovers can then walk off with their plastic
plate full of fresh oysters - ready to be slurped on a bench
or sitting on a low wall overlooking the bay. Heaven!
Image: A post card from the early 20th century
depicting oystermen and women tending to their oysters. It is
titled "Le Lavage des Huîtres" ("The washing
of oysters."). Looks like some potential buyers may have
arrived. Please note the boarded perimeter of each holding area
in the inter-tidal zone, another form of "